Friday 24th March - Caceres, Spain

Today we say a fond farewell to Portugal as we make our way North, back through Spain, towards France.  We are sad to leave Portugal.  Spain was a tough act to follow with regards to friendliness of welcome and kindness of the people, but we found that the Portuguese took things to an even higher level.  We will miss the strange language that sounds as if they're speaking Russian, the beautiful beaches, safe and clean environment, excellent roads, excellent and affordable local cuisine and wine, sitting in the sun and drinking our morning galão or evening wine and just generally chilling.  We won't miss the incomprehensible road toll system (a mystery even to the local inhabitants) but that seems a small price to pay (or maybe not - we really don't know).  One day we hope to come back and stay in Amado, just watching the surf roll in and out for a week or two or maybe to spend a while walking around the Evora area.  Meanwhile, goodbye and thank you to Portugal.  We've had a great time.

We were packed and away by 08.30 this morning and set off through thick fog towards Spain. One thing we have noticed in Portugal (in particular) is the very large numbers of white storks that seem to be nesting all over. On our way to Spain today the storks were out in numbers. We could see them perched on nests on the top of any available pole (telegraph pole, power line pole and poles that just seem to have been erected for the storks). It would seem that the storks find enough food, usually from rubbish sites, that they don't now migrate to Africa.  

As we had an early getaway, we arrived at our campsite in Spain just after lunch.  The campsite in Caceres differs from any other that we have stayed at in that every pitch has a small wooden shed like building with an individual key.  At first sight, this makes the area look rather scrappy and like a shanty town and before entering the little 'sheds' they look like old fashioned outdoor lavvies.  This isn't too far from the truth except that when you unlock the door the inside of the 'shed' is a modern wet room, beautifully clean and nicely tiled throughout with mosaic tiles.  The campsite is too far out of the city to walk but there is am excellent local bus service from a nearby industrial estate.  We were pretty pleased with ourselves that we managed to be up and away early enough to travel here, set up camp and catch the bus into the town, all in the same day.

Caceres is a quite amazing place.  One cannot but marvel at the old town, with its maze of cobbled streets and beautifully preserved ancient buildings.  It is almost like being transported back in time if it wasn't for the tourists snapping away (us included).  Actually there were precious few tourists wandering the old town when we were there, although oddly quite a few police.  We found out why later in our visit.

Parque de Calvo Sotelo

Parque de Calvo Sotelo

Statue of  penitents (Nazareno)
 in a pointed hoods (capirote)
in San Juan square

One of many lovely floral displays

Convent church of the Company of Jesus 

Cathedral of Santa Maria

Steps from the Plaza Mayor leading up to the Old Town

Bar terrace overlooking the Plaza Mayor

View to the hills overlooking Caceres

Palace of Weathervanes (Palacio de las Veletas)

View through to the Plaza Mayor

Dome of the Palace Toledo Moctezuma

In the early evening there were more police around the old historic centre and they started closing off some of the exits.  It was apparent that something special was going on so we went to the Tourist Information office and they confirmed that Queen Sophia of Spain was coming to a concert this evening.  We decided we weren't bothered enough to hang about and see her but just as we were leaving the town to catch the bus we saw the cavalcade arrive so we stopped and took the photo opportunity.

How nice of Queen Sophia of Spain to turn out to greet us

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